Does E-Save really save it for you?

I’ve had my brand new DS4 E-Tense for 2 months now. My driving mostly short distances in urban areas and the car is mostly an electric car to me. When driving longer distances the map assisted destination can optimize the battery really well that there is about 0 energy left on arrival. I’ve tried occasionally the E-Save functionality but it does not save my battery and I still end up to zero electricity left. I wonder if it’s because it’s winter here and all the energy goes to heating up the car. Yes, it has been a real winter from -30C to 0C for 3 months in a row. Does your E-Save work as expected that you can save battery for last 10km?

It will only do its thing when you’re driving in any other driving mode than Electric. Meaning: yes it works like advertised on mine and it actually should work like this on yours too :wink: In order to make use of the saved electricity, only then you’re supposed to switch to Electric mode, telling the car ‘hey it’s okay to drain the battery now’.

Unless you’re right about the extreme cold, with the car needing the battery power for climate control. I personally don’t have experience with those temperatures but I do know the battery drains way quicker in the cold when the climate control is active. Not just due to the fact that battery capacity drops.

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Good to know it has a chance to work. It must be the cold weather for me that makes it fail. But still I’m wondering why the car goes to electric at slow speed even the battery is below the 10km save mark? I could think it should try to save the energy but it’s like giving up. Does your car drive electric on slow speed even it below the save mark?

I haven’t tried to set it up to save all of electric battery. Should the car drive on petrol only when I set it up to save maximum energy? The manual says the car should fire the petrol engine even to reload the battery to the desired save level but that does not happen to me at these below zero temperatures. May be I bought a summer car.

Good question, mine also uses electric at lower speeds even though the 10km mark has already been reached. But only slightly. I have a feeling it only takes energy usage of driving into account here, not climate. It will not turn on the petrol engine when it detects battery is dropping because of climate control, even though you’re standing still or at very low speeds. It will only turn on the petrol engine when the driving itself consumes more battery than a certain threshold.

About the ‘save all of electric battery’ (you’re probably referring to the MAX setting in E-Save), again it will only do this when you’re in any other driving mode than Electric. It will indeed use the petrol engine to charge the battery, but only while driving. Possibly even only on higher speeds. In practice, I noticed it just sticks to a lower gear with the revs higher than normal. As far as I know this behavior doesn’t change depending on the temperature. But again, I’m not experienced with the low temperatures you mentioned.

Slight addition, in case you have either 10km or 20km set in E-Save, the car will also charge the battery to those levels if below. Not just the MAX setting.

It was above zero temperatures all day yesterday and I had a chance to test the maximum E-Save setting. It really tried to fill up the battery while driving warmed up car around 40-50km/h. I let it fill up from 88% to 93% before I stopped the foolishness. So, that works as expected at least. Very likely the 10km or 20km setting works as well above zero conditions too. The petrol consumption with maximum E-Save was pretty high, indeed, 8.7l/km for a 5km driving within city limits, where as hybrid does it around 2.0l/km even in winter as long as the battery has capacity left.

BTW: Finnish winter killed the 12V battery in a month. I wonder if the battery installed was original part at all because it was Exide 72Ah battery. The new 12V battery is written “PSA original part 72Ah” but no brand at all. My car stood outside as new in cold for 2 months before I picked it up. I suspect the car retailer needed to replace the battery before they handed over the car to me but that Exide didn’t work too well. The car is with 3 year warranty anyways so I can’t care how many 12V batteries they need to replace for free to me. Did your car come with PSA original or the Exide 12V?