Engine Fault Warning Advice Pls

Looking for some advice please re: 2018 Blue HDi 2018 DS7 - 65k.

Car has been used on a lot of short runs since the summer which I know is not ideal. During December before it got very cold I had a “risk of particle filter blockage” and the orange engine fault come on. I took the car for an hour’s drive on the motorway and on the next cold start the fault was gone.

Then over Christmas when it got very cold - ice on car each morning the fault returned. However this time I also got a fault regarding ‘automatic brake’ and the car when cold, and especially on a slight incline, would judder or break very briefly. I plugged an ODBC reader in and the error reported was: “Warm up Catalyst thredhold below threshold bank 1”.

Despite the above the car otherwise was driving ok until one morning the car was lacking power and then a new error regarding the laser sensor appeared. At this point I started to suspect the battery, before starting my usb device I have plugged was showing 11.7v so I suspected that the battery was dying - exaggerated by the recent cold weather. The original battery, a Varta, is not an AGM type - so I ordered a new Varta AGM type.

I put then new battery in yesterday, let it sit for 10 mins and then did a short drive around some local roads, I got the “sensor error” again and the brief brake/shudder. After this short drive cleared the faults via the reader and on the 2nd drive performance felt better.

Then this morning after the first cold start… I got the radar sensor error, the brief brake.judder and lack of power in 1st and 2nd gear. I parked the car up for 20 mins, then when i returned it pulled away with full power, no brake judder issue just a message that “risk of DPF blockage” - but no orange warning lamp warning.

So that’s where I am at currently.

Do the new batteries take a while to stabilize and do they need to be properly registered with the car’s ECU? I read that if voltages are low and unstable the car’s ECU doesn’t trust them and so it fires the warnings and alerts. I can’t believe that there is actually anything wrong with the brake and radar sensor - what is the coincidence of these two items failing along with the DPF becoming blocked. ChatGPT tells me that the car may take a few runs to trust the sensors and stablise but I’m not sure if it is trying to keep me onside.

Does the car just need a good blast on the motorway to perform a regen and fix the DPF warning - I’m just unsure how to proceed.

Any thoughts? Thanks.

I have the DS4 E Tense, I know its a totally different model, but I did have issues with the 12 v batteries going faulty within 12 months of buying the car new, it actually went through 3 main 12v batteries and 1 new auxiliary 12v battery in just 12 months, all replaced under warranty.
Thers a case still open with DS to try and rectify why this keeps occurring.
At the moment the car is in the dealership for a different fault but each time the car goes in they always check the batteries over because of the cars history with the batteries, so I’m expecting them to ring at at anytime telling me the battery/batteries are failing again.

The car was behaving erratic just before each battery failed, different type of errors or faults each time.
The batteries that are in the car now have been there for about 3-4 months all was good up until a few weeks ago, but now it pretty much runs with the ICE on even if the hybrid battery is fully charged, it was doing this, amongst other things the last time the batteries started playing up, so I’m thinking here we go again !!

From what I’ve experienced and been told by various people/owners and indeed DS Master techs is if the 12v battery or batteries start to fail the car doesn’t like it all and will throw up errors you wouldn’t normally associate with a failing battery.

Theres a few owners on here who know far far more than me, I can only offer advice on my own experiences, but I’m sure one or two of the other members on here will pick this up soon and start to offer great advice/tips.

Just because you bought a new battery doesn’t mean it’s fully charged, especially if the battery retailer’s warehouse isn’t heated.

Good point - what should I be getting as a reading before starting to know if it is fully charged - it is a Varta AGM battery

12,8V SOH 100%, SOC 100%, internal resistance ab. 6-8 mOHM


I had 12.6v on my meter before starting so I guess I should top it up with a charger. Is it ok to do this with the battery connected?

It’s ok. But plug charger to 230V grid minimum after 1 hour from locking the car.

From what I’ve been told its ok to charge the battery connected, just maybe follow the basic rules.

  1. connect the negative to the cars earthing point not the battery negative
  2. wait around 10-15 mins after switching off ignition before starting the charge
  3. set your charger to the batteries spec written on the battery, ie, EFB, STD, AGM, GEL ect. & also the rating , SEA EN CCA ect..
  4. A slow trickle is better than a fast charge.

Hope it gets sorted .

I thought it was around 10-15 mins before starting a charge ?
or was that testing a battery ? :thinking:

since the issues this morning I ahve done 4 short runs or 10-15mins on local roads and aside from an ‘engine fault’ that comes up when i first turn the ignition on, I’m not getting any of the senor/rador/brake issues and no juddering and performance is back. There are no details regarding the fault and it only appear when first starting up, after that there is no orange warning lamp