Thats not good at all! Hope it really is down to a really bad battery and not the car…
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Are they replacing like for like ?
EFB main one and AGM support ?
Or are they doing what you initially said you thought that both batteries should be the same type ?
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Hydrogen gas do not smell. Coming from the battery it must be sulfuric acid which is corrosive
Efb battery, the smell coming from the front battery, when I opened the hood, steam was coming out of the battery vent and there was a smell of rotten eggs. They did not deliver the vehicle, they said that the batteries would be replaced with the same ones, that is, there was an EFB battery in the front and an AGM battery in the rear. What the master told me is that there is the same battery in the back and front. I saw it at the service, while the rear battery cover was open, I saw the brand and model of the AGM battery. I shared the battery with you. The master said this: AGM front and rear batteries were used in DS9. In DS7, the two batteries are the same, liquid EFB, that is, glass fiber acid mixture, but this is not the case. I think that problems may occur again when the batteries’ lifespan falls below 80% in the future. The EFB battery in the front fights with the AGM when sulphation occurs…
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Yes, there will be change with the same. I will confirm with the master when I go to the service.
I saw the rear battery at the service. Access to factory data with the battery code. Isn’t it a agm battery?
So to clarify they will replace the front main battery with EFB as per the original, and the rear support battery with AGM, again as per original ?
So if that is the case, the problem will reoccur if your theory is correct ?
According to what i understand is the Stellantis service representative in Norway:
Front standrad battery- BATTERI 12V L2 680 60AH EFR 680. (EFB)
aft 12V 12Ah 200A.(AGM)
There is no direct interaction between these batteries in how they are charged.
Thats my understanding as well.
Master jakactac. The problem was fixed, I took delivery of my vehicle, the batteries were changed as the staff said, I’m sure the same batteries will cause problems again in the future, they changed it under warranty, it is renewed, my opinion is that I bought my vehicle in 2024, desulfate formed within the waiting period of 2023, ex-factory, I am sure that the incompatibility is the end of the batteries. . On the delivery form it was stated that the battery and small battery were replaced and the software (MF3C4 C41 IVI) was updated. It was repaired without any problems, thank you very much to stelents and ds employees. They provided spare parts quickly. If the malfunction recurs after a long time, I am considering replacing two batteries (AGM) during post-warranty battery replacement. I will pay attention to the thermal insulation of the AGM battery in the engine compartment. insulation is required…
Bit of an update.
Both the main 12v battery and the 12v auxiliary battery are being changed under warranty next week.
Apparently after the Stellantis technician viewed some data from my car they’ve come to the conclusion that the main battery is depleting which is also effecting the auxiliary battery.
We’ll see what the outcome is next week.
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Sir, my problem has been solved and it is going very well. After two battery changes, the car shows a very stable performance. I now realize that I enjoy my car
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What I don’t understand is that the power supply, which provides all the controls of my vehicle, may lose its power due to sulphation. The auxiliary battery is useless. Worse, it drains the system. The main battery has dropped to 8 volts. If the post-warranty service deems it appropriate, I will state that I want to replace it with an AGM battery. Thermal insulation is a must, the land is available at my own expense…
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The technician did point out that I’ve been checking the voltage with a standard multimeter set to 12v battery mode, apparently this is the incorrect way to check an EFB battery, or indeed an AMG battery.
Apparently these type off batteries requires a dedicated tester for vehicle batteries and then set to the type of battery ie: EFB , AGM ect.
Using a standard multimeter, and even set to 12v car battery mode will give incorrect results.
The 12v car battery setting on a standard multimeter is for testing basic lead acid batteries, not EFB or GM batteries.
This could be why I’ve been seeing odd results when checking the voltage after charging ?
Which company makes a standard multimeter that can be set to 12v battery mode? I may need to buy one
You are right but I want to point out that the two batteries are not produced in the same class or with the same technology. The problem is incompatibility. Maybe the engineers decided that there would be no compatibility problem for profit-loss, i.e. load balance. In conclusion, this is the problem… Actually I don’t care, I paid a lot of money for this car in my country, if necessary I will use compatible battery heat insulation etc. AGM style in the future and I won’t have any problems. I am sure.
Most mulitmeters have a 12 v battery mode.
But as I mentioned, if your car has an EFB or AGM battery you dont want to be testing with a “multimeter” you require a stand alone car battery tester that has individual settings for battery types, ie EFB, AGM, Wet Lead Acid.
If you Google Car battery tester look for one that has individual battery type settings, there loads out there do it, just avoid a standard multimeter.
Some will say suitable for ALL TYPES BATTERY, which is ok, but I would try to find one where you specifically set it to your battery type.
Also make sure it reports SOC (State Of Charge, and SOH (State Of Health)
You dont need anything expensive, just a dedicated battery tester not a multimeter.
Multimeters are a great tool for testing all types of voltage/current, but when it comes to specific car battery testing it’s a standalone battery tester you require.
Something like this is fine.
Thanks for the link. (but I still haven’t seen the 12v selection on a standard multimeter :))