P1059 ds4 2021

Hey guys,
My fiancee bought a DS4 late 2021 (1 reg 2022) with 1.6 e-tense hybrid.
Soon after pickup she drove until the battery got down to 0% and we got an error electrict drivetrain failure and electric drivetrain temporaly not available. After charging the battery it went away and everything was working. After few days she drove it to 0% again, error came on and never went back even after charging.

Reading it with obd shows P1059 code, which from what I found online is related to 12v supporting battery under the armrest? Am I correct with this one? Did anyone had similar issues?

Car driver normally in hybrid mode, electric drivetrain works, battery is getting depleted. It just won’t go to full ectric mode for some reason.
Any ideas? It is of course after varranty already…

The 12v batteries on the E Tense are notorious for depleting.
I’ve had both the main 12v (under bonnet) and back up 12v (under the armrest) changed TWICE under warranty in the last 7 months.
Even the slightest drop in voltage can cause certain features to not function, such as the keyless entry, auto welcome lights, data downloads.

When you charge the hybrid battery a small amount of charge will feed through to both of your 12v batteries but not a great deal.
The main 12v battery gets its charge from the alternator, the current is then fed from the main 12v to the smaller 12v battery under the armrest, it’s a one way flow of current , so the current doesnt come back from the smaller one to the bigger one.
This is important to know because if you ever want to remove the batteries you must remove the terminals in a specific order.
If I recall it’s, negative off the smaller battery first, then the positive off the main, then positive off the smaller and the negative off the main last.
DOUBLE CHECK I MIGHT HAVE THE SEQUENCE WRONG ?
It shows this in the manual, and the Master Tech at my dealer tried to explain why but it was a bit over my head.
Apparently removing them the wrong way around interferes with the cars BMS (Battery Management System) and can lead to problems.
Technician also told me that DS are big on recycling, down to using recycled 12v batteries, in in their brand new cars, which mine is.
So having two sets of 12v batteries in 7 months might be the reason why ??

I’ve had issues with the batteries , both the 12v and the hybrid.
Heres some tips :
Drive your car on the motorway for a good 50 miles.
You should start to see your hybrid starting to work.
But if you do low mileage town type driving you might start to see less 100% full hybrid electric.
The car likes to have a bit of mileage done to access full hybrid electric.

You may also notice that the car will drop the revs to around 1400rpm and the blue hybrid bar becomes active, it then drops to 800rpm but still has an active blue hybrid bar.
So basically the car is using the hybrid battery but keeping the engine ticking over.
this is NORMAL.
Theres a number of reasons for this.
Engine is cold.
Car wants more mileage for lubrication, and internal checks, it wants to stop fuel waxing up on the fuel system.
You have features on like A/C or heaters.
Your speed is above a certain point so its easier for the cars engine to kick back in when it needs to.

Even though you might be querying the hybrid battery, it could very well be one or both of your 12v batteries thats throwing up issues, like no full hybrid electric.
My E tense has been back and fore the dealership at least 6 times for similar issues.
They have changed both 12v batteries twice but I still find that the car doesnt always give full electric when it should.
However, it is far better if I put a bit of milage on it.

Have you tried manually charging your 12v batteries ?
If you read the manual it does mention that certain features may shut down if the car does low mileage.
My advice would be to charge the hybrid, charge the 12v main battery (this will trickle into the smaller 12v) and take the car for a nice long trip, hopefully you’ll see a difference in how the hybrid starts to behave.
If this doesnt work get your 12v batteries checked out, if one of them needs changing remember to check the terminal removal sequence before removing.
Remember though, as mentioned above, that even with a full hybrid charge, the car will still want you to run the engine for a certain amount of mileage , it needs this done to run its own checks and get the engine lubricated ect.

Hello Bartosz,

If it is not too late, I had the same issue in Peugeot 508. They share the same configuration. I suggest the following:

It was a blown fuse located directly next to LVNSD2 module, it is purple 125 Ampere fuse.

What to check first, before attempting the replacement of module:

  1. Make sure the fuse is not blown:

  1. Ensure the car battery in the trunk is properly charged. On started engine - about 13-14V

  2. Ensure the LVNSD2 module is properly connected on every end, + and - connectors as well

  3. If there are no issues with wiring around the module, the most probable issue is the module itself - replace it

Additional notes:
This module most likely does not require any learning/telecoding - it works from the start after replacement.
Backwards compatibility - you can replace it with the module of other date of production. What matters is the module name itself.
LVNSD2 belongs to the rear car battery
LVNSD1 belongs to the front car battery

I am not sure where is the rear car battery located in DS4 exactly,

Best regards

Great advice and explanation. :+1:

My car is still under warranty and they are still trying to find a cause for the depleting 12v main battery, so I would imagine everything you’ve mentioned would of been covered?
I can recall in the earlier days when they first looked at the car they changed a module but I’m not sure which one, but I think that was because they had tried a number of things before that ?

There seems to be a process they have to go through before just diving in and changing parts, each process is authorised by DS Technical.
Currently, my dealership and DS Technical are scratching their heads as they’ve just about tried everything on the tick list so far, yet the main 12v battery continues to deplete very quickly , I’m on the 4th battery in 9 months, the last one lasted just 2 weeks, yet the car is showing no fault codes, theres no issues showing when I’m driving the car but each time they’ve changed the battery and I’ve had to take the car back to see if all is still ok, they plug it back into they system and it says the battery has depleted again ?
They’ve even had their system checked at the dealership to make sure it’s not that.

Hello Jactac,

I will try to technically answer your questions as thoroughly as possible.
As a note, I am not a specialist in this field; anything I say may be a cognitive bias, but I have my theories on how the hybrid system works and fails in general.

From the most important notes:

  • All former-PSA cars (Peugeot, CitroĂ«n, DS) use the same Hybrid 225 solution
  • So far, I have tested these issues on two Peugeot 508 R8 Hybrid 225 cars

There are two LVNSD modules:
a) LVNSD1 module applies to the front/main car battery
b) LVNSD2 module applies to the rear/secondary car battery

These modules read specific data that apply both on the AC Inverter (located in the front, above the gearbox), and the OBC DC/DC converter located left, behind the rear wheels (This is in case of Peugeot, but I assume DS has similar or identical location). Lastly, these modules read data from their respective car batteries.

  • If one of the modules fails in some way, it is most likely that the system stops charging one of the batteries. The module may not necessarily send an error code.
  • How the communications work is some magic to me, because after fixing LVNSD2 issues, also Airbag issues (pedestrian collision detection system) and cruise control (RADAR module) have stopped. To my knowledge, these modules should not be responsible for the mentioned systems.

Coming closer to your specific issue:

  • I would check if the LVNSD1 module is not providing any issues. I would check if LVNSD1 can be programmed/telecoded (Diagbox). If it failed to do so, I would replace it.
  • Make sure both the AC inverter and DC/DC Converter provide correct readings. DC/DC converter sends separate error codes that are not directly related to the problem mentioned in this subject. I am aware of what DC/DC should provide specifically, but this is a broader subject and would quickly go off-topic; creating multiple paragraphs on the issue. If you are personally attempting to solve the issue, I will provide more information.
  • If the rear battery is also not charging properly, this is an LVNSD2 module issue. Check for a 125-ampere fuse directly connected to the said module. If it is fine, attempt to program/telecode the module. If that fails, replacement of the device will be necessary.
  • If both batteries are failing to charge, this is most likely related to the OBC DC/DC converter.

And more detail to your specific issue
Could you please elaborate on the degree to which car batteries are degrading? There is a power latch that causes the car battery to lower the voltage reading by around one volt (Example - from 13.1V to 11.7V). It happens after 5 minutes. I noticed that while attempting to program/telecode most modules, Diagbox requires the main battery to be charged to at least 12V. The simple solution was to start the car engine, then the voltage jumps from below 12V to 13-14V again.

Let me know if any of this helps.

Best regards

Hi Groundforce,
Thanks again for all the advice.
I’m not trying to solve the issues myself, it’s beyond my basic knowledge if I’m honest..

This all started many months ago when the keyless entry & welcome lights would only work intermittently, so I booked the car in to be checked out.
At first they thought it was a simple software update, this failed to solve the issue, (No mention of battery problem at that time), after this they replaced both keys, this also failed, then it was more software updates, then a modulator was replaced, but I’m not sure which one, this also failed to solve the issue and still no mention of a battery issue.
All of this was over a few months.
The case was passed onto DS Technical here in the UK, after a while they suggested to change BOTH 12v batteries.
I was asked to use the car for about 1 month and then return to see if the batteries were ok and to see if the keyless entry & welcome lights issues had been solved, it hadn’t, also when checking the batteries the tech guy said he wasn’t happy with the readings off the main 12 v battery but the smaller one was ok, they then changed the main 12v battery again.
I used the car for about a further 6 weeks took it back to be checked and again they found that the main 12v battery was depleting, the battery was changed for a third time.
They said the battery is showing as 100% charged but the “health” of the battery was not good, which they felt was unusual.
Another thing to note is that the car was not and still isn’t showing any error codes, and I’m not noticing anything different with the car apart from the keyless entry & welcome lights issue.
The battery issue was only picked up because they checked it as part of the keyless entry & welcome lights issue, no other reasons.
Another thing to note is DS Technical UK dont actually think the keyless entry & welcome lights is anything to do with the batteries, they think it’s a software issue that they are still looking into.
They believe the battery issue is a separate thing.

So going forward from the above, the car is now on its 3rd main 12v battery, which was fitted about 6 weeks ago.
As mentioned I’m not seeing anything to indicate the battery is faulty, however, 2 weeks ago the car had to go back to the dealership to have a new bonnet badge fitted under warranty ( original one starting to peel), whilst the car was there for the badge they decided to check the batteries, they found the main 12v depleted, bearing in mind it had only been on the car for around 3 weeks max.
This is when they told me it’s showing as 100% charge but only 63% health, which apparently the previous batteries were showing roughly the same.

So, currently they are waiting to hear back from DS UK to see what to do next.

Hello Jactac,

I wonder what method are they using to check the battery health. Because if it is via OBD/VCI, then BSI module might provide some incorrect readings. If it is via external tools, then it is a complete mystery to me. I would have to check readings in Diagbox to propose any theory.

Best regards

I was thinking the same thing, are they seeing a " fault" thats not actually there ?

Hi, did you manage to solve the problem?
I’m considering replacing the module LVNSD2, but can it be used from another car (same numbers)? Does it need to be coded?

Another main 12v battery was replaced, thats the 5th battery in 17 months

I know that petrol and diesel versions comes with 70Ah EFB battery but not sure what kind comes with hybrid ones. If they’re all same, AGM battery might be fit better because they have more charging cycle capabilities. EFB types are suitable for cold weather and start stop capability, not durability. I’m pretty sure that DS services would not provide an AGM battery because its not standart but after waranty is over, might give that a chance.

MHEV and PHEV the same.
The small auxiliary battery (MHEV, petrol and diesel don’t have it) is AGM.

So, we are not sure how many times main and small 12V batteries get charged and discharged but if we assume they maintain same cycles, seems like small 12V battery has lasts longer than the main 12V which is not AGM. (due to Jactac’s battery replacement history). Its quite weird that petrol and diesel versions have no problem with main 12V battery but hybrid ones goes bad so quickly. Its bizarre that a car needs to change its main battery every 3-4 months. I never understand French electornics…

I dont think the French understand they’er own electronics :rofl:

This can’t be assumed, because the large battery is charged more frequently than the small battery. The large battery is charged while driving and charging the traction battery, while the small battery is charged only while driving. After all, the less you drive, the sooner your small battery will need replacing.

Secondly, replacing a small battery is faster than a large one – based on Stellantis’ experience. A small battery lasts an average of 2-3 years. The @Jactac example is unique and unusual. I don’t know of any other battery issue like this.

So it depends mostly on driving styles. I wonder how often does this problem occur? I didn’t checked p5 308 and Astra L hybrid variants or same 225 hybrid package in Stellantis cars about these battery issues, if its certain amount, it might’ve escaladed to consumer rights case or maybe collective civil suit. Stellantis having these lawsuits for years (1.2 Puretech timing problems, 1.2 MHEV fuelline callbacks etc.) like many other companies.

The less you drive, the greater the chance of the auxiliary battery failing. A car is meant to be driven, not parked, so it’s not a potential lawsuit.

The manual states (but who reads this?):
For optimum service life of the battery, it is essential to maintain an adequate state of charge.
In some circumstances, it may be necessary to charge the battery:
– using the vehicle mainly for short journeys;
– if the vehicle is to be taken off the road for several weeks.

This is the case in every car. In the PSA PHEV, the advantage is at least the additional charging of the main battery while the traction battery is being charged.

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I checked both 12v batteries while charging the traction battery and the smaller 12v was receiving charge along with the larger 12v.