9828201580 12V 12Ah 200A Fiamm
Well. Iâve just joined the club, couldnât get into the car this morning by proximity keyless entry, had to revert to the emergency key. I thought it was the fob battery, so replaced that still didnât work. Eventually, drove for 2 miles in âPowerâ mode, engine running, all works again, I hope that giving the car a good run (30+ miles) this weekend will sort this out for a while.
Note: Traction battery was at 100%, underbonet battery had been attached to my maintainer for last 36 hours, so I can only assume neither charges the Hybrid (auxiliary) battery.
I checked both 12v batteries whilst the ICE is running and they do both get a charge, both were 14.7v whilst ICE is running.
I havenât yet tried checking whilst the traction battery is being charged.
My car is also currently running in âpower modeâ and thatâs with a brand new battery fitted last week.
So like you I think the car needs/wants/craves a nice long trip.
Switch to electric mode and you will see that both will then also be at 14.7V.
Do you mean check them whilst charging the traction battery ?
When you say power mode, do you mean the ICE runs at 1400rpm then drops to 800rpm , but in the background the traction battery is driving the wheels.
For me I can see the ICE runs at 1400 rpm it then drops to 800 rpm, but the power meter is lit in blue showing the traction battery is driving the wheels.
If I accelerate a bit more the ICE does then take over driving the wheels.
In my mind the ICE runs at these rpms purely to help charge the 12v batteries.
It also occurs if you put the heaters on, depending on the ambient temp and the temp you are asking for .
DS technician told me this is normal because putting on things like heaters draws more current from the 12v battery so the car will kick in the ICE to compensate if it needs to ?
I mean driving in electric mode, not charging, because then you wonât be able to drive. If youâre charging the traction battery, you wonât be able to start any drive mode - READY will not light up.
Ah right ok,
So just by switching to electric mode the 12v batteries will show somewhere around 14v, so therfore indicating they are drawing power from the traction battery, correct ?
Obviously wont be able to drive in electric mode and test the 12v batteries at the same time, thats got accident written all over it .
What about when the traction battery is being charged ?
Will the 12v batteries show the increase in voltage ?
My point is, do they get charged at the same time the traction battery is having a charge ?
Gets even stranger. After DS looked at the car on Monday and confirmed it was the 12v battery being the problem, a few short trips on Tuesday and Wednesday with no Electric available. Lo and behold today for the first time in ages the Electric worked properly on two trips, roll on tomorrow to see if itâs still available. Think there must be a âlets annoy himâ gremlin.
Again its working today (Friday)
When it was in Stellantis on Monday they did say they had put a software update in, perhaps just perhaps it may have addressed the problem.
Correct
The same wat as testing with a running ICE. It doesnât matter which driving mode youâre in when the READY light is on. Just shift to P and apply the brake, and then you can test both batteries to see if they are charging.
Then only the main one under the bonnet is charged.
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Yes, power mode forces the engine to run, starts off at 1400, then drops to 800 rpm. I then made sure it stayed in 2nd, by flipping the paddle each time it went into third to keep the revs up and a decent charge going into the batteries. I think happens to make sure the engine is warm and lubricated enough to give you the full 225 bhp when you need it without damaging the engine.
Further to your battery issues - as you have previuosly stated you need a warm/hot cabin, so by having the heat turned up full, on shot trips your batteries will always be stressed. Is there anyway you could use the preheat function in the cold months while you car is still plugged in, I think this would reduce the stress on the 12 volt system.
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I think my short trips have a lot to do with the battery issues Iâm seeing.
Has anyone charged the Auxiliary battery without disconnecting it - is it safe?
This is how I charge. I usually wait three hours after locking the car before connecting the charger, allowing the auxiliary battery voltage to drop. I then approach the car without the key to avoid wake up the 12V system, and simply plug the charger into a 230V outlet.
In mine itâs called SPORT mode when I want 225HP.
I think theres a bit of confusion.
I have Sport Mode, but I think perhaps Versailles means when the car runs at 1400rpm and then drops to 800rpm, running power back to the 12v batteries.
Thats what I thought he meant by âpower modeâ ?
Sorry, guys, mines C5X, exactly the same under the skin, Iâm here as no other forum gives Stellantis PHEVâs as much coverage.
If the car (ICE) starts at 1400 rpm and then drops to 800 rpm, it could also mean the ICE was cold. 1400 rpm isnât just a sign of energy demand.
My impression is that the starting at 1400 is to get the engine internals upto temperature, then it drops down to 800 on idle. I have had the enginee do this a number of times then turn off completely, assuming its to recharge the 12 volt batteries.
It happens more in the winter due to me using the heated steering wheel and seats, and to get the cabin temperature up. I can remember going a whole month on electric, but that was in August when it was hot outside.
On my 42 mile round trip today to recharge the 12 volt batteries, the engine ran for at least 22 of those miles before it shut down while sitting at traffic lights, and this was after having to use the manual key to unlock the car.
Added comment
I think i have found another issue created by a discharged armrest battery. Iâve had a number of âfailedâ charges recently , not last night after my drive.